Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. More oxidation-stable than L-ascorbic acid, but antioxidant and brightening activity are lower.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Brightening derivative (Sepi-White by Seppic). Clinical data on lightening exists, less convincing than MAP/SAP.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a synthetic water-soluble vitamin C derivative. L-ascorbic acid bound to an aminopropyl phosphate group – gives the molecule stability at neutral pH. Mechanism. Slowly hydrolyses in skin via epidermal phosphatases, releasing free L-ascorbic acid. Antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitor (brightening effect), collagen synthesis cofactor. Activity is lower than pure L-ascorbic acid because conversion is incomplete (about 5–10% of dose). Where applied. Anti-aging serums and creams (1–5%), brightening products, post-procedure formulas. Advantage over L-ascorbic acid – stability in formula (does not oxidize, does not yellow) and activity at neutral pH (5–7). Evidence base. Few direct clinical RCTs with endpoints. Manufacturer in vitro data support antioxidant and brightening activity. Effect is more modest than 10–20% L-ascorbic acid at low pH. Safety. CIR confirmed safety of ascorbic acid derivatives in cosmetics. Hypoallergenic, non-irritating, non-comedogenic. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Acceptable at any stage. One of the few vitamin C derivatives without pregnancy restrictions. Particularly suitable for. Sensitive skin that does not tolerate pure ascorbic acid (irritation, erythema, tingling). 'Starter vitamin C' profile – a gentle on-ramp to anti-aging care. For serious melasma and visible anti-aging effect, 10–20% L-ascorbic acid is the better choice.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to Wildberries, Goldapple, Letu, iHerb, Sephora and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate suits: normal, dry, sensitive, combination.
Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative.
The INCI name is Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate. It may also appear as: APAP, Аминопропил аскорбилфосфат.
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