Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative. More oxidation-stable than L-ascorbic acid, but antioxidant and brightening activity are lower.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Brightening derivative (Sepi-White by Seppic). Clinical data on lightening exists, less convincing than MAP/SAP.
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Sensitive, Combination
Combinations with other ingredients
About this ingredient
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a synthetic water-soluble vitamin C derivative. L-ascorbic acid bound to an aminopropyl phosphate group – gives the molecule stability at neutral pH. Mechanism. Slowly hydrolyses in skin via epidermal phosphatases, releasing free L-ascorbic acid. Antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitor (brightening effect), collagen synthesis cofactor. Activity is lower than pure L-ascorbic acid because conversion is incomplete (about 5–10% of dose). Where applied. Anti-aging serums and creams (1–5%), brightening products, post-procedure formulas. Advantage over L-ascorbic acid – stability in formula (does not oxidize, does not yellow) and activity at neutral pH (5–7). Evidence base. Few direct clinical RCTs with endpoints. Manufacturer in vitro data support antioxidant and brightening activity. Effect is more modest than 10–20% L-ascorbic acid at low pH. Safety. CIR confirmed safety of ascorbic acid derivatives in cosmetics. Hypoallergenic, non-irritating, non-comedogenic. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Acceptable at any stage. One of the few vitamin C derivatives without pregnancy restrictions. Particularly suitable for. Sensitive skin that does not tolerate pure ascorbic acid (irritation, erythema, tingling). 'Starter vitamin C' profile – a gentle on-ramp to anti-aging care. For serious melasma and visible anti-aging effect, 10–20% L-ascorbic acid is the better choice.
Frequently asked questions
Is Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate safe during pregnancy?
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate for?
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate suits: normal, dry, sensitive, combination.
What is Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and what does it do in cosmetics?
Stable water-soluble vitamin C derivative.
What's the INCI name for Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate?
The INCI name is Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate. It may also appear as: APAP.
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