Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4)
Synthetic lipopeptide: a type I procollagen fragment (KTTKS) linked to palmitic acid. In cells, the peptide without palmitic acid increased collagen production. One placebo-controlled human trial found fewer wrinkles
Evidence by route
Topical application
A cosmetics manufacturer ran one double-blind split-face trial (93 women, 12 weeks, 3 ppm). The peptide side had fewer wrinkles than the vehicle side. The second randomized trial is a small pilot without published numbers. Collagen stimulation was shown only in cells, for the peptide without palmitic acid
- Robinson LR et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27(3):155-60. PMID 18492182
- Aruan RR et al. Double-blind, Randomized Trial on the Effectiveness of Acetylhexapeptide-3 Cream and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Cream for Crow's Feet. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2023;16(2):37-43. PMID 36909866
- Choi YL et al. Dermal Stability and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Collagen Pentapeptides (KTTKS and palmitoyl-KTTKS). Biomol Ther (Seoul). 2014;22(4):321-7. PMID 25143811
- Katayama K et al. A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production. J Biol Chem. 1993;268(14):9941-4. PMID 8486721
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Working concentrations
- The only placebo-controlled trial used 3 ppm (0.0003%) of the peptide itself in the cream (Robinson 2005). No other concentration has a published controlled result. A percentage of the trade solution is not the same as the peptide content
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Sensitive, Combination
About this ingredient
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (pal-KTTKS) is a synthetic lipopeptide: the type I procollagen fragment Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser linked to palmitic acid. The raw material is sold under the trade name Matrixyl. The mechanism comes from cell studies. In fibroblast cultures, the same sequence without palmitic acid (KTTKS) increased production of type I and III collagen and fibronectin (Katayama 1993). On hairless mouse skin in diffusion cells, little pal-KTTKS reached the dermis: 0.3 µg/cm² vs 4.2 µg/cm² in the stratum corneum. In skin extracts it broke down quickly (Choi 2014). The peptide is added to anti-aging creams and serums. The main human evidence is one double-blind split-face trial (Robinson 2005). For 12 weeks, 93 women aged 35–55 applied a moisturizer with 3 ppm (0.0003%) of the peptide to one half of the face. The other half got the same moisturizer without the peptide. Image analysis and expert graders found fewer wrinkles and fine lines on the peptide side. A cosmetics manufacturer ran the trial. The abstract gives no percentages and does not mention firmness. A second double-blind trial was a pilot: 21 women in three groups of about seven, for eight weeks (Aruan 2023). A cosmetics company funded it. The authors report better results with the peptide cream than with placebo but give no numbers or concentration. Participants tolerated the cream well (Robinson 2005). There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Frequently asked questions
Is Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) for?
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) suits: normal, dry, sensitive, combination.
What is Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) and what does it do in cosmetics?
Synthetic lipopeptide: a type I procollagen fragment (KTTKS) linked to palmitic acid.
What's the INCI name for Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4)?
The INCI name is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4. It may also appear as: Matrixyl, Pal-KTTKS.
What concentration of Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) is effective?
The only placebo-controlled trial used 3 ppm (0.0003%) of the peptide itself in the cream (Robinson 2005). No other concentration has a published controlled result. A percentage of the trade solution is not the same as the peptide content
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