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Phytosphingosine

A sphingoid base, the backbone of the phytoceramides NP, AP and EOP. In cell cultures it stimulates keratinocyte differentiation and filaggrin synthesis. On human skin it has been tested mainly as part of lipid mixtures

Evidence by route

C

Topical application

Data come from cells, mice and human reports without a described design or control. In controlled volunteer studies phytosphingosine was tested only within lipid mixtures. There are no studies in atopic dermatitis. The acne data come from authors linked to the raw material maker

  • Pavicic T et al. Anti-microbial and -inflammatory activity and efficacy of phytosphingosine: an in vitro and in vivo study addressing acne vulgaris. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2007;29(3):181-90. PMID 18489348
  • Choi HK et al. Phytosphingosine enhances moisture level in human skin barrier through stimulation of the filaggrin biosynthesis and degradation leading to NMF formation. Arch Dermatol Res. 2017;309(10):795-803. PMID 28936777
  • De Paepe K et al. Repair of acetone- and sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged human skin barrier function using topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2002;16(6):587-94. PMID 12482041
  • Yilmaz E et al. Effect of lipid-containing, positively charged nanoemulsions on skin hydration, elasticity and erythema--an in vivo study. Int J Pharm. 2006;307(2):232-8. PMID 16289984
  • Kim S et al. Phytosphingosine stimulates the differentiation of human keratinocytes and inhibits TPA-induced inflammatory epidermal hyperplasia in hairless mouse skin. Mol Med. 2006;12(1-3):17-24. PMID 16838068
How to read tiers A–F
  • CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Unknown
Suitable for
Oily, Dry, Sensitive, Combination, Normal

About this ingredient

Phytosphingosine is a sphingoid base, the backbone of the phytoceramides NP, AP and EOP. The stratum corneum also contains it in free form (Pavicic 2007). Ceramides NP and AP and salicyloyl phytosphingosine are different substances, and their data do not apply here. It is made by biotechnology and goes into barrier creams and products for acne-prone skin. Most data come from cells and mice. In keratinocyte cultures, phytosphingosine raised cornified envelope formation about 1.8-fold. In mice it blocked TPA-induced epidermal thickening (Kim 2006). In keratinocytes it also raised filaggrin and the enzymes that turn filaggrin into natural moisturizing factor (Choi 2017). No controlled human study has tested phytosphingosine alone. Pavicic 2007, whose co-authors are linked to the raw material maker, reports good results in acne. The abstract gives no design, sample size, control or numbers. Choi 2017 reports higher hydration in human skin, also without details. In controlled volunteer studies it was part of lipid mixes. After damage with sodium lauryl sulfate, the barrier recovered faster with such a mix than with an emulsion containing only ceramides. After acetone damage, the mix raised hydration but did not change transepidermal water loss (De Paepe 2002). Hydration and elasticity rose more than with comparison emulsions (Yilmaz 2006). Its own share was not assessed. It has not been studied in atopic dermatitis. There are no published human data on irritation or sensitization and no data on use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Frequently asked questions

Is Phytosphingosine safe during pregnancy?

Safety data for Phytosphingosine during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.

What skin types is Phytosphingosine for?

Phytosphingosine suits: oily, dry, sensitive, combination, normal.

What is Phytosphingosine and what does it do in cosmetics?

A sphingoid base, the backbone of the phytoceramides NP, AP and EOP.

What's the INCI name for Phytosphingosine?

The INCI name is Phytosphingosine.

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