Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer. Helps dissolve essential oils and lipophilic actives in the water phase and stabilizes cream emulsions.
Topical application
CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus.
Safe emulsifier with no standalone skin activity. CIR confirms safety at current use levels. Use caution in patients with known polysorbate allergy.
Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80) is a non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer, a sorbitan ester of oleic acid. One of the most widely used emulsifiers in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals – it stabilizes oil-and-water mixtures into emulsions. Where applied. Creams, lotions, toners, serums (0.5-5%), sunscreens, shampoos and conditioners. In pharmaceuticals – a base for vaccines and injectables as a solubilizer (e.g. remdesivir, tamoxifen). Safety. CIR confirmed safety in 2015 at cosmetic concentrations. Non-comedogenic and non-irritating in most patients. Systemic absorption through intact skin is minimal. Controversy and facts. In a subset of patients with very sensitive skin and rosacea, polysorbate 80 has been described as an irritation trigger – but the effect has not been confirmed in placebo-controlled trials. Allergic reactions to injectable forms (COVID-19 vaccines) are rare (1 case per 100,000–1 million doses). Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Systemic absorption is minimal; no teratogenic effects reported. Alternatives. Lecithin (natural emulsifier), Polysorbate 20 (a milder analogue, often used in baby cosmetics), cetearyl alcohol.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
LowPregnancy
SafeSuitable for
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Polysorbate 80 is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Polysorbate 80 suits: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.
Non-ionic emulsifier and solubilizer.
The INCI name is Polysorbate 80. It may also appear as: Tween 80, PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleate, Полисорбат 80.
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