Ethyl Linoleate
Ethyl ester of linoleic acid (omega-6). Lightweight emollient that integrates into the skin barrier and replenishes linoleic acid deficiency – the mechanism behind its benefit for acne-prone skin. Use levels 1-5%. Non-comedogenic and pregnancy-safe.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Ethyl Linoleate replenishes linoleic acid deficiency in the skin barrier. In-vivo data show reduced comedone counts in acne-prone skin (Letawe 1998, Darmstadt 2002), but large RCTs are lacking. Traffic light YELLOW – mechanism is plausible, evidence is moderate.
- Letawe C et al. Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones. Clin Exp Dermatol 1998;23:56-58. DOI 10.1046/j.1365-2230.1998.00315.x
- Darmstadt GL et al. Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier. Acta Paediatr 2002;91:546-554. PMID 12113324
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Ethyl Linoleate is the ethyl ester of linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid. It is produced by trans-esterifying linoleic acid with ethanol, most often from sunflower or safflower oil. INCI: Ethyl Linoleate. Unlike free linoleic acid, the ester form resists oxidation and integrates better into cosmetic emulsions. In the skin, linoleic acid is a structural component of ceramides 1 and 6 that hold water in the stratum corneum. In acne patients, sebum shows a higher proportion of oleic acid and lower linoleic acid – under the 1991 down-regulation hypothesis this is part of the comedone-formation mechanism. Topical replenishment of linoleic acid in ester form normalizes the profile and reduces new lesions in in-vivo studies. Use levels are 1-5%. Common in formulas for problem skin and emollient boosters. It pairs well with niacinamide, zinc, and retinyl esters. Pregnancy safety. Topical use is safe. Systemic absorption is minimal, no teratogenic effects. Linoleic acid is a nutritionally essential component. Skin tolerance. Low irritation and allergen profile. Non-comedogenic (score 0). Suitable for acne-prone, sensitive, and dry skin. In oily skin it can improve sebum quality and reduce new comedones. Ethyl Linoleate does not replace retinoids, azelaic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. It is a supportive ingredient that rebuilds the barrier of skin compromised by aggressive anti-acne therapy.
Frequently asked questions
Is Ethyl Linoleate safe during pregnancy?
Ethyl Linoleate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Ethyl Linoleate for?
Ethyl Linoleate suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Ethyl Linoleate and what does it do in cosmetics?
Ethyl ester of linoleic acid (omega-6).
Is Ethyl Linoleate comedogenic?
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
What's the INCI name for Ethyl Linoleate?
The INCI name is Ethyl Linoleate.
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Glycine Soja Sterols, Glycosphingolipid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Linoleic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols
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