Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Horse chestnut seed extract with escin as the main active. Oral use shows proven benefit in chronic venous insufficiency (Cochrane 2012). Topical use in cosmetics for anti-redness creams and eye-area products – the manufacturer claims reduced capillary permeability and puffiness. Topical clinical studies are substantially fewer.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Systemic escin use in chronic venous insufficiency is supported by a Cochrane review. Topical use in cosmetics is supported by small placebo-controlled studies on rosacea-prone skin and periorbital edema. No head-to-head comparisons with other anti-redness components.
- Pittler MH, Ernst E. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2012;(11):CD003230. PMID 23152216
- Wilkin J et al. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;50(6):907-12. PMID 15153893
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Moderate
- Pregnancy
- Caution
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Horse Chestnut Extract (Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract) is an extract of Aesculus hippocastanum seeds. The main active is escin, a triterpene saponin (16–20% in the extract). Mechanism. Escin reduces capillary permeability and fragility by inhibiting hyaluronidase and elastase – enzymes that degrade the perivascular matrix. Constricts small venules, reduces plasma exudation into interstitium (puffiness). Local anti-inflammatory action via PGE2 suppression. Where applied. Serums and creams for couperose, puffiness, bruising, and eye-area (0.5–2%). Gels for bruises and varicose veins (Lyoton, heparin gel with escin). Brands: Sesderma Couperend, Mesoestetic Couperend Maintenance, Martiderm Sun Vit C Pigm Solution, Heliocare 360. Oral use (Aescin, Venoruton) for chronic venous insufficiency with Cochrane 2012 evidence. Evidence base. Topical use is less studied than oral. Calabrese 1993 (n=70, 12 weeks, 2% escin) showed reduction in bruising and edema in patients with venous insufficiency. Cochrane 2012 (oral) confirmed moderate effect in chronic venous insufficiency. For couperose creams, RCTs with clinical endpoints are scarce – extrapolation from systemic effect. Safety. CIR confirmed safety for topical use at cosmetic concentrations. Contact allergies are rare (1–3%), reported in patients allergic to Sapindaceae. Does not photosensitize. Pregnancy and lactation – use with caution. Topical use at cosmetic concentrations is acceptable, but direct pregnancy data are scarce. Oral horse chestnut is contraindicated in pregnancy due to potential fetal toxicity (raw seeds are poisonous in humans, contain esculin). Particularly suitable for. Couperose, fragile small vessels, under-eye darkness with a venous component, eyelid puffiness. Often combined with vitamin K, centella, rutin.
Frequently asked questions
Is Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract safe during pregnancy?
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract should be used with caution during pregnancy. Consulting a dermatologist or OB-GYN is advisable.
What skin types is Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract for?
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract suits: normal, dry, combination, sensitive.
What is Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract and what does it do in cosmetics?
Horse chestnut seed extract with escin as the main active.
What's the INCI name for Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract?
The INCI name is Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract. It may also appear as: Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Horse Chestnut Extract, Escin.
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