Evigrade

Artemisia Princeps Extract

Extract of Japanese mugwort, Artemisia princeps. Barrier and anti-allergic effects have been seen in cells and mice. The extract has not been studied on human skin

Evidence by route

C

Topical application

Barrier and soothing effects have been seen only in keratinocytes and mice. Topical use has not been studied in humans. Pollen of this mugwort is a major airborne allergen in Korea. People with mugwort pollen allergy should be cautious, although nobody has counted reactions to the leaf extract in cosmetics

  • Hirano A et al. Antioxidant Artemisia princeps Extract Enhances the Expression of Filaggrin and Loricrin via the AHR/OVOL1 Pathway. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;18(9). PMID 28892018
  • Lee SH et al. Inhibitory effect of eupatilin and jaceosidin isolated from Artemisia princeps in IgE-induced hypersensitivity. Int Immunopharmacol. 2007;7(13):1678-84. PMID 17996677
  • Park HS et al. Identification and partial purification of pollen allergens from Artemisia princeps. Yonsei Med J. 1989;30(4):346-54. PMID 2626839
How to read tiers A–F
  • CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential
Low
Allergen risk
Low
Pregnancy
Unknown
Suitable for
Sensitive, Normal, Combination, Oily

About this ingredient

Artemisia princeps extract is made from Japanese mugwort (yomogi in Japan, ssuk in Korea). The plant contains the flavones eupatilin and jaceosidin. Mechanism data come from cells and mice. In human keratinocytes, the extract raised the antioxidant enzymes NQO1 and HO-1. It also increased expression of the barrier proteins filaggrin and loricrin via the AHR/OVOL1 pathway. When AHR or OVOL1 was knocked down, the effect disappeared (Hirano 2017). Half of the authors of that paper work in a cosmetic company's R&D unit. Eupatilin and jaceosidin isolated from the plant suppressed mast cell degranulation and lowered TNF-α and IL-4 in cell culture. Given to mice orally or intraperitoneally, they reduced passive cutaneous anaphylaxis. Scratching also decreased (Lee 2007). The extract is used in soothing products for sensitive and irritated skin. Topical use has not been studied in humans. No published studies have measured erythema, transepidermal water loss or hydration with this extract. Artemisia pollen is considered the main late-summer and autumn allergen in Korea. In sera from 20 patients allergic to Artemisia, A. princeps pollen showed 16 IgE-binding components (Park 1989). People with mugwort pollen allergy should be cautious with the extract, although nobody has measured how often the leaf extract in cosmetics causes reactions. There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Frequently asked questions

Is Artemisia Princeps Extract safe during pregnancy?

Safety data for Artemisia Princeps Extract during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.

What skin types is Artemisia Princeps Extract for?

Artemisia Princeps Extract suits: sensitive, normal, combination, oily.

What is Artemisia Princeps Extract and what does it do in cosmetics?

Extract of Japanese mugwort, Artemisia princeps.

What's the INCI name for Artemisia Princeps Extract?

The INCI name is Artemisia Princeps Extract. It may also appear as: Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Mugwort Extract.

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