Borago Officinalis Extract

Tolerability and safety

Irritation potential

Low

Allergen risk

Low

Pregnancy

Unknown

About this ingredient

Borago Officinalis Extract is a water or glycolic extract of Borago officinalis leaves and flowers. Contains flavonoids, mucopolysaccharides, minerals (potassium, calcium), traces of γ-linolenic acid. Mechanism. Unlike borage seed oil, the leaf and flower extract has little GLA – its properties are driven by flavonoids and mucopolysaccharides. On skin it acts as a mild humectant and a weak anti-inflammatory ingredient. Where applied. Toners, hydrating serums, masks, sensitive-skin products. Concentration 0.1–3%. In Spain in niche natural cosmetic lines – Naobay, Weleda, Freshly Cosmetics. Rare in dermocosmetics. Evidence base. Few direct clinical RCTs on topical aqueous borage extract. Most data come from in vitro antioxidant activity of flavonoids and the Mediterranean traditional use as an anti-inflammatory and diuretic herb. Safety. Contains trace pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PA) like the seed oil. In aqueous or glycolic extracts PA levels are usually low, but a certificate with PA content should be requested from quality manufacturers. No direct CIR monograph. Pregnancy – unknown. No direct data on topical use of the extract. As a precaution AEMPS and SEGO recommend avoiding it in pregnancy, especially when the label states 'high content of Borago officinalis extract' without a PA certificate. For safe support of dry and atopic skin choose borage seed oil from a reliable producer or ceramide emollients. Lactation – likewise with caution. Realistic assessment. A marketing ingredient of natural cosmetics with limited evidence. For anti-inflammatory and hydrating effect, centella, bisabolol, panthenol, and beta-glucan are more reliable.

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