Centella Asiatica Oil
Oil extract of gotu kola – a carrier of triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside). Barrier repair and anti-inflammatory action. Pregnancy-safe.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Centella triterpenes with confirmed barrier-healing action.
- Hashim P et al. Centella asiatica in food and beauty. J Food Sci 2011.
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Centella Asiatica Oil is an oil maceration of Centella asiatica (gotu kola, tiger grass) leaves in a vegetable oil (sunflower, olive, grape seed). Compared with the aqueous extract, the oil form delivers lipid-soluble triterpenes and carotenoids. Where it is used. Cica-creams and serums for sensitive, reactive, and couperose skin, post-procedure products (laser, peel, microneedling), mature-skin formulations, and atopic dermatitis products. Concentrations 1-10%. In Spain: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5, Avène Cicalfate+, Mustela Cicastela. Composition. Contains triterpene saponins – asiaticoside 0.5-2%, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. Additionally beta-carotene, tocopherols, and flavonoids. The main actives are the triterpenoids, responsible for regeneration and anti-inflammatory action. Mechanism. Centella triterpenes stimulate type I and III collagen synthesis by fibroblasts through TGF-beta activation. They accelerate re-epithelialization and reduce perilesional edema and erythema. They inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-2, MMP-9), which limits collagen breakdown during inflammation. Antioxidant activity through free radical scavenging. Evidence base. Topical centella preparations have evidence base B in wound healing, post-acne, and mild-to-moderate atopy. The Lee 2012 RCT (n=22 with atopic dermatitis) showed a 35% reduction in transepidermal water loss and a 28% drop in erythema over 4 weeks. Bonté 1995 demonstrated 17% faster surgical wound healing. The Wijaya 2022 meta-analysis confirmed efficacy in moderate-to-severe atopy in children. Safety. Pregnancy and breastfeeding – topical use is safe. Oral Centella asiatica during pregnancy requires caution due to a theoretical hepatotoxic risk (isolated case reports). Irritation is rare. Patients with Apiaceae allergy (carrot, parsley, fennel) may have cross-sensitization – a forearm patch test is advisable before first application. Practical notes. In a good Cica formula INCI, Centella Asiatica Oil or extract sits at position 3-7. Compatible with every active – retinoids on alternate days, niacinamide, peptides, hyaluronic acid. Non-comedogenic (Fulton 1). A solid option for patients with couperose, rosacea, post-acne, and post-laser care.
Frequently asked questions
Is Centella Asiatica Oil safe during pregnancy?
Centella Asiatica Oil is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Centella Asiatica Oil for?
Centella Asiatica Oil suits: normal, dry, combination, sensitive.
What is Centella Asiatica Oil and what does it do in cosmetics?
Oil extract of gotu kola – a carrier of triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, madecassoside).
Is Centella Asiatica Oil comedogenic?
On the Fulton scale 1/5 – very low comedogenicity. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
What's the INCI name for Centella Asiatica Oil?
The INCI name is Centella Asiatica Oil.
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