Protein fraction of gotu kola extract – a source of amino acids for epidermal regeneration. Pregnancy-safe.
Topical application
BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations.
Centella protein fraction. Contains amino acids and trace triterpenes. Effect via NMF + the triterpene mechanism (like other centella forms).
Centella Asiatica Protein Extract is the protein fraction isolated from Centella asiatica leaves by alkaline hydrolysis followed by neutralization and filtration. Compared with the standard centella extract, it contains more amino acids, oligopeptides, and hydroxyproline, and fewer triterpenes. A complementary component to the standard centella chemistry. Where it is used. Premium Cica formulations for mature skin, barrier-repair products after aggressive procedures, atopic dermatitis products focused on epidermal regeneration, and Asian K-beauty masks and emulsions. Concentrations 1-5%. In Spain it is less common than the main centella extract – mostly in K-beauty-inspired lines. Composition. Amino acids – glutamate, aspartate, serine, alanine, proline. Oligopeptides and hydroxyproline (a signature of collagen metabolism). Residual triterpenes – asiaticoside and madecassoside in low concentrations. Usually combined with other centella extracts as a full-spectrum complex. Mechanism. Amino acids contribute to the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the stratum corneum and retain water in the epidermis. Hydroxyproline is a building block of collagen and elastin and stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize new collagen. Oligopeptides may activate epidermal regeneration signaling pathways. Combined with residual triterpenes, this gives a synergistic anti-inflammatory and regenerative effect. Evidence base. No isolated clinical trial of centella protein extract exists. Evidence base C through indirect data on the triterpene fraction (Lee 2012, Bonté 1995 RCTs) and on peptide-amino acid complexes in general (meta-analyses of NMF and peptides). The centella proteins marketing claim is scientifically limited. Safety. Pregnancy and breastfeeding – topical use is safe. Non-comedogenic, non-sensitizing. Patients with Apiaceae allergy may have cross-sensitization (forearm patch test). Irritation is very rare. Practical notes. A useful component in comprehensive Cica formulations, but not a standalone substitute for the base centella extract with triterpenes. In INCI it usually sits at position 5-10. Compatible with every active. Not to be confused with Hydrolyzed Centella Asiatica Extract – that has a different molecular profile due to additional enzymatic cleavage.
Irritation potential
LowAllergen risk
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Centella Asiatica Protein Extract is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
Centella Asiatica Protein Extract suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
Protein fraction of gotu kola extract – a source of amino acids for epidermal regeneration.
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
The INCI name is Centella Asiatica Protein Extract. It may also appear as: протеины центеллы.
Published: · updated:
Pregnancy
SafeSuitable for