Saccharide Isomerate
Beet-derived carbohydrate complex with a structure similar to stratum corneum carbs. Binds to keratin and holds moisture for up to 72 hours after application, not washed off by water.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Manufacturer Mibelle data and independent studies show prolonged moisturization and reduced roughness. Safe in sensitive skin and eczema.
- Imhof L, Leuthard D. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2021;34(Suppl 1):14-23. DOI 10.1159/000509296
- Mibelle Biochemistry. Pentavitin Technical Dossier.
How to read tiers A–F
- BLimited evidence. One RCT or several controlled studies with limitations
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Saccharide Isomerate (DSM trade name Pentavitin) is a carbohydrate complex from sugar beet. Structurally close to stratum corneum carbohydrates. The main difference from ordinary humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) – it does not wash off and holds moisture for up to 72 hours after application. Mechanism. The molecule carries several hydroxyl groups that bind by hydrogen bonds to stratum corneum keratin. It forms a permanent bound 'water reservoir' on skin that replenishes from deeper layers and atmosphere. After cleansing the complex is not fully removed – part remains on the surface and keeps working. Where applied. Serums and creams for dehydrated skin (1-5%), very dry skin and winter products, eye-contour products, hydrating lines. In Spain in Sesderma Hidraderm, Bioderma Hydrabio, La Roche-Posay Hydraphase. Evidence base. DSM conducted a series of studies (Wallo 2003, n=18) with corneometer skin hydration measurement: a single application of 4% Pentavitin maintained elevated hydration for 72 hours. Mason 2017 confirmed the effect on dry skin. The effect is more modest than the '72-hour hydration' marketing claim, but real. Safety. EU CosIng permits use. CIR has not issued a standalone review, but use experience since the 1990s is extensive. Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, non-irritating. Suitable for sensitive skin and atopics. Pregnancy and lactation – safe. Plant origin, no systemic absorption. No restrictions in any product.
Frequently asked questions
Is Saccharide Isomerate safe during pregnancy?
Saccharide Isomerate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Saccharide Isomerate for?
Saccharide Isomerate suits: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.
What is Saccharide Isomerate and what does it do in cosmetics?
Beet-derived carbohydrate complex with a structure similar to stratum corneum carbs.
What's the INCI name for Saccharide Isomerate?
The INCI name is Saccharide Isomerate. It may also appear as: Pentavitin.
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