Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Synthetic tripeptide linked to palmitic acid. The supplier links it to collagen synthesis. There are no peer-reviewed studies of the peptide itself, only open-label studies of multi-ingredient serums
Evidence by route
Topical application
There are no peer-reviewed studies of the peptide on its own. Human data come only from open-label studies of multi-ingredient serums without a control group. The authors did not separate the peptide's contribution from that of vitamin C, urea and other actives
- Lintner K et al. A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19(12):3262-3269. PMID 33103342
- Sanz MT et al. Biorevitalizing effect of a novel facial serum containing apple stem cell extract, pro-collagen lipopeptide, creatine, and urea on skin aging signs. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(1):24-30. PMID 26424007
How to read tiers A–F
- DNo data, or very weak or conflicting data
Tolerability and safety
- Working concentrations
- The only peer-reviewed study with a stated concentration used 5 ppm (0.0005%) of the peptide together with 15% L-ascorbic acid. The effect therefore cannot be attributed to the peptide (Lintner 2020)
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is a synthetic tripeptide linked to palmitic acid. The raw material is sold under the trade name Matrixyl synthe'6. It is a different molecule from palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, so trial data on that peptide do not apply here. The supplier reports that in cells it stimulates collagen and other dermal matrix proteins. These data appeared in a patent and a trade journal without peer review. There are no peer-reviewed studies of the peptide on its own, either in cells or in people. Human data come from open-label studies of finished serums without a control group. In one, 35 women aged 40 and over applied a serum once daily for 56 days. It contained 5 ppm (0.0005%) of the peptide, 15% L-ascorbic acid and tocopheryl acetate. Skin roughness fell by 8–9% and redness by 9% (Lintner 2020). The serum's manufacturer funded the study. The authors note that the peptide's share cannot be separated without testing every combination of ingredients. In another study, 32 women with sensitive skin used a serum with apple stem cell extract, urea, creatine and the peptide. After 28 days, 71% showed an anti-wrinkle effect (Sanz 2016). The serum's manufacturer ran that study and did not give the peptide concentration. Published irritation and sensitization tests for this peptide are lacking. There are no data on use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Frequently asked questions
Is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 for?
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and what does it do in cosmetics?
Synthetic tripeptide linked to palmitic acid.
What's the INCI name for Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38?
The INCI name is Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38. It may also appear as: Matrixyl Synthe-6.
What concentration of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is effective?
The only peer-reviewed study with a stated concentration used 5 ppm (0.0005%) of the peptide together with 15% L-ascorbic acid. The effect therefore cannot be attributed to the peptide (Lintner 2020)
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