Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
Indian gooseberry fruit extract with vitamin C and polyphenols. In cells it protected against UV damage, and in a test tube it inhibited tyrosinase. Human skin studies tested it only in mixtures
Evidence by route
Topical application
The extract alone has been studied only in cells and test tubes: it raised procollagen in fibroblasts, protected keratinocytes from UV and inhibited tyrosinase. Human trials tested it only in mixtures with centella or with kojic and glycolic acids, so its own effect on skin is unknown
- C
Anti-aging
In fibroblasts the extract raised procollagen and lowered MMP-1 (Fujii 2008); a placebo-controlled trial tested it only together with centella and did not separate its effect (Poomanee 2023)
- C
Antioxidant effect
Antioxidant data come from a test tube and from keratinocytes after UV exposure (Chaudhuri 2002, Qu 2023); antioxidant activity has not been measured in human skin
- C
Brightening
The extract inhibited tyrosinase in a test tube (Lin 2022); in people it was tested only with kojic and glycolic acids, so its brightening effect is unknown (Draelos 2010)
- Fujii T et al. Amla (Emblica officinalis Gaertn.) extract promotes procollagen production and inhibits matrix metalloproteinase-1 in human skin fibroblasts. J Ethnopharmacol. 2008;119(1):53-7. PMID 18588964
- Qu L et al. Protective effect and mechanism research of Phyllanthus emblica Linn. fruit extract on UV-induced photodamage in keratinocytes. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2023;22(8):1945-1959. PMID 37076760
- Chaudhuri RK. Emblica cascading antioxidant: a novel natural skin care ingredient. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol. 2002;15(5):374-80. PMID 12239434
- Lin JH et al. PVP/CS/Phyllanthus emblica Nanofiber Membranes for Dry Facial Masks: Manufacturing Process and Evaluations. Polymers (Basel). 2022;14(21). PMID 36365465
- Draelos ZD et al. Evaluation of a kojic acid, emblica extract, and glycolic acid formulation compared with hydroquinone 4% for skin lightening. Cutis. 2010;86(3):153-8. PMID 21049734
- Poomanee W et al. Optimized multiherbal combination and in vivo anti-skin aging potential: a randomized double blind placebo controlled study. Sci Rep. 2023;13(1):5633. PMID 37024608
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Working concentrations
- The only concentration tested on people is 3% amla extract plus 3% centella extract in one emulsion; amla alone was not assessed (Poomanee 2023)
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Unknown
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Amla fruit extract (INCI Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract) is made from the fruit of Indian gooseberry, which contains vitamin C and phenolic compounds (Fujii 2008). It goes into brightening and anti-aging products. Data on the extract alone come from cells and test tubes. In skin fibroblasts it increased procollagen production and sharply reduced MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks down collagen (Fujii 2008). Pretreated keratinocytes had fewer reactive oxygen species and less cell death after UVA and UVB (Qu 2023). A standardized extract showed antioxidant activity and bound iron and copper; the author worked for its producer (Chaudhuri 2002). In a test tube, extract from a nanofiber mask cut the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme of melanin synthesis, by 99.5% (Lin 2022). On human skin the extract has not been tested alone. In a placebo-controlled trial in 60 women, one group used an emulsion with 3% amla and 3% centella extract for 60 days. Hydration, elasticity and wrinkles improved in that group, but amla's share was not assessed (Poomanee 2023). In 80 people with facial dyschromia, a cream with kojic acid, amla extract and glycolic acid lightened skin as well as 4% hydroquinone over 12 weeks. There was no placebo group (Draelos 2010). Irritation, sensitization and comedogenicity of the extract alone have not been studied. In the Poomanee trial none of the 60 participants had erythema or edema. There are no data on use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Frequently asked questions
Is Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract safe during pregnancy?
Safety data for Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract during pregnancy is insufficient. Best avoided when in doubt.
What skin types is Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract for?
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract and what does it do in cosmetics?
Indian gooseberry fruit extract with vitamin C and polyphenols.
What's the INCI name for Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract?
The INCI name is Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract. It may also appear as: Amla Fruit Extract, Indian Gooseberry Extract.
What concentration of Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract is effective?
The only concentration tested on people is 3% amla extract plus 3% centella extract in one emulsion; amla alone was not assessed (Poomanee 2023)
See Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract in a product composition right on the store page
The Evigrade extension adds an evidence panel to iHerb, Sephora, Druni and 12 more stores. This ingredient and every other one in the product show evidence-tier, allergen risk and pregnancy/lactation flags at a glance.
Similar role in the formula
Explore by category
Ingredients in the same category
Phytic Acid, Phytonadione Epoxide, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Rice Ferment Filtrate, 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine, Bromelain, Glabridin (Licorice Root Extract), Malic Acid
Published: · updated: