Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate
Madecassoside derivative with vitamin C – combines the anti-inflammatory action of centella with antioxidant effect of ascorbate. Pregnancy-safe.
Evidence by route
Topical application
Dual centella + vitamin C mechanism. Few direct RCTs; effect extrapolated from components.
- Pinnell SR. Topical vitamin C in dermatology. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003. PMID 12522365
How to read tiers A–F
- CWeak evidence. In vitro data, open-label studies, or expert consensus
Tolerability and safety
- Irritation potential
- Low
- Allergen risk
- Low
- Pregnancy
- Safe
- Suitable for
- Normal, Dry, Combination, Oily, Sensitive
About this ingredient
Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate is a conjugate of madecassoside (a triterpene saponin from Centella asiatica) and ascorbate (a vitamin C derivative). A patented active complex that combines the anti-inflammatory mechanism of madecassoside with the antioxidant potential of ascorbate in one stable molecule. The producer is Bioland Korea, with use in premium K-beauty products. Where it is used. Serums and emulsions for mature, inflamed skin, photoaging products, post-procedure care (laser, chemical peel, post-acne), essences for couperose and rosacea-prone skin. Concentrations 0.1-2%. In Spain – very limited presence, mostly through Asian online retailers. Mechanism. Dual activity: the madecassoside moiety stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen through TGF-beta, while the ascorbate fragment serves as a cofactor for prolyl hydroxylase (a collagen hydroxylation enzyme) and scavenges free radicals. Compared with separate madecassoside and vitamin C, the conjugate is more stable in aqueous formulations and better tolerated by sensitive skin. Evidence base. Evidence base C-D. No isolated clinical trials of Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate exist. Indirect data through madecassoside RCTs (improvement in atopy and post-acne, Wijaya 2022 meta-analysis) and vitamin C (antioxidant protection, collagen synthesis at 10-20% – which the conjugate at 0.1-2% does not reach). The marketing claim of two actives in one molecule is scientifically plausible but not clinically confirmed by standalone studies. Safety. Pregnancy and breastfeeding – topical use is safe. Patients with Apiaceae allergy – forearm patch test. Irritation is very rare. Practical notes. If a product already contains separate madecassoside and ascorbate (or ascorbyl tetraphosphate), Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate adds no extra load – it duplicates the same mechanisms. Compatible with every active except direct combination with copper-containing peptides (Copper Peptide GHK-Cu) – the ascorbate fragment can reduce copper to an inactive form. In INCI it usually appears at position 5-10.
Frequently asked questions
Is Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate safe during pregnancy?
Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate is considered safe during pregnancy at typical cosmetic concentrations. Systemic absorption through the skin is minimal.
What skin types is Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate for?
Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate suits: normal, dry, combination, oily, sensitive.
What is Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate and what does it do in cosmetics?
Madecassoside derivative with vitamin C – combines the anti-inflammatory action of centella with antioxidant effect of ascorbate.
Is Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate comedogenic?
On the Fulton scale 0/5 – non-comedogenic. For acne-prone skin, a rating of 3 or higher suggests choosing an alternative.
What's the INCI name for Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate?
The INCI name is Madecassoside Ascorbyl Asiate. It may also appear as: Madecassosideascorbyl Asiatate, Madecassoside.
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